WALES | SNOWDONIA AND CASTLES
LOVELY IN GRAY
In the Welsh countryside, bundle up and take in the
natural beauty while hopping among quaint towns
and centuries-old castles
FOR a relaxing getaway with the kind of fall beauty that many can’t find in their own back yards, consider charting a course to the idyllic Welsh countryside of Snowdonia, a scenic region in north Wales and a national park named for its tallest mountain, Snowdon.
In this distant, lovely land, sheep graze on green grass backed by the trees’ autumnal colors, ranging from deep reds to amber yellow. The clouds fly by in the bracing wind and the contrast of shadow and light dance together on the mountainside below. Gray stone walls portioning off the fields lead to charming farmhouses nestled in trees, while the smoke rising from their chimneys warms the chilly outdoor scene.
Snowdonia National Park covers more than 800 square miles in northern Wales’ Gwynedd county. Home to many breathtaking mountains and lakes, the area boasts some of the region’s most picturesque villages. It is a land steeped in history and culture, with a fair share of captivating castles and much of the population speaking Welsh.
From Criccieth, it’s just another short journey north to the charming city of Caernarfon, where you can tour the shops and stop at the open market in Castle Square to buy fresh cheese or roasted nuts. A terrific lunch awaits at a local cafe or at the Palace Vaults pub — how does a meal of jacket potatoes (baked potatoes) with cheese, bacon and beans sound?
An afternoon exploring the massive Caernarfon Castle is a delightful plan. Originally built in 1283, this castle was meant to be a heavily fortified palace. Edward I modeled the castle after the city walls of Constantinople, with darker-colored bands breaking up lighter stone. The castle was built with the most modern techniques available and was able to provide water to the kitchens through pipes and cisterns. You can still see evidence of this plumbing near the remnants of the kitchens.
From the Eagle Tower, you’ll get a spectacular view of the Menai Strait and Anglesey Island, where Prince William and his wife, Kate, lived for three years. Continue exploring the walls along the south side of the castle and visit the Royal Fusiliers Museum to learn about the history of Wales’ oldest infantry regiment. Then stand in the center of the slate dais, built for Prince Charles’ investiture in 1969.
The closest place of interest is the pleasant town of Harlech on Tremadog Bay, which is surrounded by the Rhinogydd Mountains to the east. Harlech Castle, completed in 1289 by Edward I of England, overlooks the bay and once sat next to the sea with a 200-foot-long stairway from the castle to the cliff base. Climb the impressive castle walls to admire a building achievement that survived the longest siege in British history, from 1461 to 1468 during the War of the Roses.
After exploring the towers of the castle, you might schedule a stroll along High Street and take in the picture-worthy town. During winter, many shops and cafes close early or don’t open at all. But there is a treat waiting at the Blue Lion cafe. Devour the ham or vegetable quiche and dip a cheese scone into the tasty courgette (zucchini) soup. Once you warm up with a cup or two of tea, you’ll be ready to explore further.
About an hour north of Harlech lies another strikingly impressive castle. Criccieth Castle — with a name that might have come from the Welsh words crug caeth, meaning jail on a hill — is famous as having been a prison for Welsh soldiers. It sits atop a headland with a spectacular view of Tremadog Bay and the town below, and on a clear night, you can see the castle for miles, illuminated in the darkness.
 Harlech Castle |  Harlech Castle |  Harlech Castle |  Blue Lion |  Criccieth Castle |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 Criccieth |  Criccieth Castle |
 Caernarfon Castle |  Caernarfon Castle |  Caernarfon Castle |  Caernarfon Castle |  Caernarfon Market |
|---|
For one last stop, venture down the coastline to the seaside village of Barmouth. Even in winter, the long, sandy beach is pleasant as you look out over Cardigan Bay. Barmouth has a scenic harbor with a beautiful rail and pedestrian bridge spanning the dramatic Mawddach estuary. For the adventurous, there are miles of great walking, climbing and cycling routes from the town, but go prepared for cold, rain and mud, then recover from the chill at the Tal-y-Don Hotel’s pub, where some of the best cod and chips with mushy peas in the country will hit the spot.
The Welsh countryside is exceptional in that the natural beauty is not diminished by overcast skies or chilly wind.
It seems to embrace the damp and cold, even thrive in it.
The rich history still evident in medieval castles is just part of the unparalleled beauty of the area. The living Welsh language adds another layer of depth to this unique part of the country. Snowdonia is definitely the kind of place you can visit many times and still have plenty to explore and discover.
Caernarfon Castle | Caernarfon Castle | Caernarfon Castle | Caernarfon Castle | Caernarfon Market |
|---|
Caernarfon Castle | Caernarfon Castle | Caernarfon Castle | Caernarfon Castle | Caernarfon Market |
|---|
 Conwy Suspension Bridge |  Conwy Castle |  Conwy Caslte |  Smallest House in Great Britain |  Smallest House in Great Britain |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 Pen-y-Bryn Tearooms |  Conwy Walls |
After the grandeur of Caernarfon Castle, head up the coast a bit to Conwy. With a foreboding castle that bridges the Conwy River and overlooks a picturesque quay (or bay), a medieval-walled town and stunning mountains alike, Conwy is an absolute must see. Start with a visit to Conwy Castle and explore another of the major fortresses in Edward I’s Iron Ring of Welsh castles.
Climb any of the eight towers and you will find fantastic views of the bay and mountains, none of which disappoint. Also, take in the magnificent suspension bridge that was designed to replace the ferry in 1826. As if the views weren’t enough, wait until you see the still intact outer ward containing a great hall, chambers and kitchen, and the more secluded inner ward with private chambers and a royal chapel. It is easy to imagine how the castle functioned when the king would visit.
Walk down to the quayside for a singular treat. Among the bobbing boats and cawing seagulls lies the Smallest House in Great Britain. Painted bright red, it has a floor area of 10 by 6 feet and was used as a residence from the 16th century until 1900.
Next, explore the magnificent city walls and walk along ramparts built in the 13th century for a different and equally excellent view of the castle, town and surrounding mountains.
Finish your visit by stoping for high tea at the Pen-y-Bryn Tearooms. This is the oldest teahouse in Conwy, and it is situated next to the train station. Refresh yourself with hot chocolates or tea and some delectable scones. For the full experience, be sure to order the scones with cream and jam.
Main image: Conwy Castle. Article and photos by Sarah Brubaker.
Sarah is a freelance writer, photographer and designer living in upstate New York.
This article was originally published in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram on December 15, 2013.
Castle. Museum. Cathedral.
Everyone travels the world their own way. Some like to eat their way through new places, while others shop away. I look for three things first: Castles, museums, and cathedrals. I plan my visit around these treasures and fill in the rest of the trip with local eateries and other significant cultural stops.
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