TURKEY | MYSTICAL ISTANBUL
EASTERN PROMISE
Istanbul offers a breathtakingly beautiful melding of the modern and ancient worlds — plus a terrific Turkish bath
AN attendant guided me to a basin, where I was expected to sit and sweat for 15 or 20 minutes. I was wearing my bathing suit and I’d been given a plaid cotton cloth to wrap over it. I looked around the room and noticed that I was one of the more conservatively dressed women there, which surprised me because I was in a Turkish bathhouse in Istanbul, and in some parts of the city the women are almost fully covered — with only their eyes peeking out — in public.
OLD CITY NECESSITIES
Start your journey with Hagia Sophia. Built in A.D. 537 by the Emperor Justinian as the largest church in Christendom, it was converted into a mosque in A.D. 1453 and then finally into a museum. Hagia Sophia has as much history as the city itself. Thankfully, restoration on this monument has been chiefly completed and the unfettered view of the central dome is simply breathtaking.
Just across the street from Hagia Sophia is an exceptional treasure that lies below the streets of Istanbul. The Basilica Cistern stored fresh water, about 27 million gallons, for residents of Constantinople in case of siege. With its low lighting and many mismatched and reclaimed columns stretching farther than you can see, the cistern is enchanting and mystical.
Past the cistern and at the end of what was once the Hippodrome is Sultanahmet Mosque, or the Blue Mosque. Ornate columns, covered in famous Iznik tiles, rise up to support a brilliantly floral dome and create the impression of airy elegance. Built in the 1600s, its six minarets rival the grandeur of Hagia Sophia.
Near the main area of Sultanahmet is one of the most famous Turkish hamami, or bathhouse, Cagaloglu Hamami. The Turkish bath is an essential experience when visiting Istanbul, and this particular bathhouse has been visited by celebrities such as Tony Curtis, Harrison Ford and Cameron Diaz. Relax while surrounded by warm white and gray marble, with light filtering down from a beautiful dome. Then enjoy a massage, scrub and shampoo in this 19th-century hamam and emerge, as I did from my bath, refreshed and invigorated.
OFF THE BEATEN PATH
In the northern part of the city, the ruins of the Theodosian Walls stretch next to highways and tram lines. Dating back to A.D. 400, this defensive achievement protected the Byzantine capital of Constantinople for centuries. Along the walls, there are a few steep stairways. Some are modern reconstructions, allowing visitors to climb up and get views of the city. The original stone stairs are so steep that they almost require rock-climbing certification, but the view is worth the climb.
Just south of the walls is the crowning achievement of Byzantine art. The Chora Church Museum houses beautiful frescoes and unparalleled mosaics detailing scenes from the life of Christ and the life of the Blessed Virgin. The detailed shading and highlights on the faces are remarkably lifelike. This is a must-see.
Next door to Chora Church is Asitane, one of the city’s best restaurants, specializing in fine Ottoman court cuisine. According to its website, Asitane has researched and archived more than 200 original recipes and dishes from three palace kitchens (at Dolmabahce, Topkapi and Edirne) to great effect. Start off with the delectable Ottoman hums, which is crushed chickpeas, lightly pureed with currants, pine nuts and cinnamon powder. The chicken bourek (about $10) is puff dough with chicken, eggs and fresh herbs, and it was light and spicy. The goose kebab (about $26) is baked Cankiri goose on a bed of almond pilaf wrapped in a crunchy, thin dough called yufka; it is nothing short of divine. The subtle almond flavor complements the heavy goose meat in an effortless and yet tantalizing way.
The historic mosques are a large part of the mystical charm of the city. Don’t miss Rustem Pasa Mosque. You will find it on the second story of a building; the first story is storefronts. From the terrace, you can peer down and see the busy merchants and customers sipping their cay, or tea, and haggling over prices. The inside of the mosque is dark but ornate with Iznik tiles and calligraphy adorning the walls and ceilings. While not as grand as some of the other mosques, especially the Blue Mosque, Rustem Pasa is a worthwhile visit.
In the southwest part of the old city, near the Sea of Marmara, an adventurous sightseer will find the Kucuk Ayasofya Mosque, or Little Hagia Sophia. This impressive house of worship was constructed under Emperor Justinian as a dry run for its larger namesake. The dome squats down a little, which is noticeable in the decoration on the underside. Hagia Sophia’s dome was originally like this one, but due to its immense size, it collapsed and had to be rebuilt after only five years. You can still see a Greek inscription dedicated to the emperor and patron saint of the church in the marble scrolling along the second level of this gem of Byzantine architecture.
MUSEUMS AND SHOPPING
History is all around you in Istanbul’s architecture, and there are also wonderful museums highlighting various cultural achievements. Istanbul Archeological Museum holds magnificent statues and sarcophagi. Among its most famous pieces is the oldest known peace treaty, the Kadesh Peace Treaty, signed between Ramesses II of Egypt and Hattusili III of the Hittite Empire in the 13th century B.C. Tucked in next to Topkapi Palace, this museum, unfortunately, often goes overlooked.
The heat in the bathhouse hit me hard when I first walked in. I’d purchased a scrubbing mitt and then made my way to the women-only bath. There were little rooms for changing where I had left all of my bags and clothes, taking only my locker key with me. I hobbled awkwardly along the wet marble floor, nearly falling a couple of times, until I got to the basin.
When I was deemed sweaty enough, I was ready for the bath. I made my way to the room’s central marble slab and laid down on the slippery hot surface. My attendant began scrubbing me. She scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed some
more. Then she tapped my arm and showed me just how much skin she had “exfoliated.” It was pretty amazing and, honestly, a little gross. Then she helped me back to my feet and I staggered back to my basin, where we poured lots of cool
water over me. Next thing I knew, I was covered in bubbles and I got a short, soothing massage. After that it was time to rinse off, dry off and get dressed. I emerged revitalized from my bath and made my way into the city’s streets.
Across the Golden Horn, the Pera Museum showcases spectacular 17th- to 19th-century Oriental paintings. The permanent collection includes more than 300 artworks by European, Ottoman and Turkish masters.
To get a better understanding of the contemporary Turk, the Modern Art Museum, in the Karakoy area, provides a fantastic look at the evolution of modern art produced in Turkey. Better yet, admittance to the Modern is free on Thursdays.
 Hagia Sophia |  Hagia Sophia |  Hagia Sophia |  Basilica Cistern |  Blue Mosque |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 Blue Mosque |  Blue Mosque |
When I tell people that my husband and I saved for years so we could go to Istanbul, most of them seem puzzled, as if to say: “Really? That’s where you most wanted to take your hard earned vacation?”
But the city holds a mystical charm that has captivated people throughout history, including me. Home to Byzantine emperors and Ottoman sultans, the city literally connects Europe and Asia and blends them together with beauty and a sense of pride. Ancient, modern and in-between meet and flow through the winding streets and hills. Waking up each day to echoes of the wailing call to prayer from minarets around the city was a thrilling experience in an exotic world.
The old city, or specifically, the Sultanahmet district, provides the best arena for the convergence of cultures and has the most significant historical landmarks. Sultanahmet holds some of the jewels of Istanbul, including the famed Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. In the northern part of the city, the Theodosian walls and Chora Church Museum award you a piece of Byzantium, the last continuation of the Roman Empire. Istanbul also boasts some of the best museums in the world, such as the Istanbul Archeological Museum and Modern Art Museum, and their varied collections provide a look at the art of Turkey, old and new. Should you be lucky enough to go, too, here’s what you need to see and do.
 Theodosian Walls |  Chora Church |  Chora Church |  Chora Church |  Rustem Pasa Mosque |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 Rustem Pasa Mosque |  Little Hagia Sofia |
If you are interested in current culture (and perhaps purchasing a piece of it), be sure to check out the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market. Considered an ancient shopping mall, the Grand Bazaar’s maze-like halls hold everything from jewelry and leather pieces to beautiful glass lamps and scarves. The hospitable merchants usually offer a glass of tea — before they give their aggressive sales pitch. If you prefer a little less intimidating atmosphere, the Spice Market has most of the wares in the Grand Bazaar with the addition of striking spices ranging from gold to deep red, creating the ambiance of a true Oriental market.
If you’re like me, you will find that leaving Istanbul fills you with a sense of contradiction — although it will be great to get back to the familiar, the mystical charm of the city will continue to call to you, enticing you to visit once more. Perhaps next time I’ll even leave my bathing suit at home.
Article and photos by Sarah Brubaker. Sarah is a freelance writer, photographer and designer living in upstate New York.
This article was originally published in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram on March 6, 2011.
Castle. Museum. Cathedral.
Everyone travels the world their own way. Some like to eat their way through new places, while others shop away. I look for three things first: Castles, museums, and cathedrals. I plan my visit around these treasures and fill in the rest of the trip with local eateries and other significant cultural stops.
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RETURN TO VENICE
SHAKESPEARE'S STRATFORD-UPON-AVON
